The 3D Setup Wizard recognized it! So far, so good. inf file for the Asus PG278Q as the driver for the Samsung Odyssey G7. I disabled driver signature verification and was able to load the. Of course, the 3D Setup Wizard wouldn't let me continue without an appropriate gaming monitor. I have no idea what the other one does, if anything. (Har har.) Of course, that led me here.Īfter finally getting the drivers working with anaglyph 3D (a big shout-out to Losti and this entire community), I ordered a knock-off 3D Vision kit from Amazon. I figured that with an Nvidia GPU, I could just track down the appropriate hardware, plug it in, and fire it up. I had a shutter-based 3D system with an ATI Radeon way back when (early 2000s), and I was vaguely aware of Nvidia 3D Vision. The G7 reminds me of an IMAX screen, and I thought that 3D on this monitor would be pretty cool. I find it more immersive than the flat screens on the other monitors I've been evaluating. The 1000R curve on the Samsung G7 is controversial, but I love it. I figured a 32" gaming monitor would be more immersive. I previously checked out the 27" Acer Nitro VX272 X (240 Hz IPS), but I had problems with flickering and random image retention. The Asus and MSI use the same AUO panel but offer slightly different feature sets. I'm planning on building a gaming rig, but new parts are scarce, and I'm gonna wait for the RTX 3080 Ti.įor the past couple of weeks, I've been trying out a few 32" 1440p gaming monitors, namely the Samsung Odyssey G7 (240Hz VA), Asus ROG Swift* PG329Q (175Hz overclocked IPS), and MSI PS321QR (165Hz IPS). For gaming, I run my FW900 at 1536x960 at 120Hz (it maxes out at 160Hz at lower resolutions). It's enough to run Doom Eternal at ~90 FPS and eSports titles like Quake Live at 200+FPS at 1440p. My current setup is an Intel NUC8 i5 with a Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Gaming Box Thunderbolt eGPU. CRTs are king for input lag and motion blur, so my standards are very high when it comes to those. Reading reviews about the latest gaming monitors, I decided maybe it was time for one. I haven't been a huge gamer, but I enjoy fast-paced FPS like Quake Live and Doom Eternal, as well as racing games. I'm a long-time CRT user my Sony GDM-FW900 is doing fine, but it's not big enough for an immersive gaming experience, contrast is poor except in complete darkness, and it's not high-res enough to get the most out of today's games. There might still be more tweaking possible, but for now I want to enjoy my games! Once I got things stabilized with Z due to a mismatch between shutter frame times and video frame times, it was W that was responsible for adjusting the "phase" and eliminating ghosting. Update Jan 6, 2021: Got it! Eliminated most ghosting with the following settings in NvTimingsEd: (It was good enough that with both eyes open, I saw ghosting only with my dominant eye.) Now I have to figure out how to adjust the offset/phase of the timing. Update Jan 5, 2021: In the NvTimingsEd tool, setting "Z (frameTime)" to 8350 μs seems to stabilize the crosstalk: I didn't see ghosting get better or worse over the course of 20+ minutes, and it was definitely playable. New 165Hz+ IPS panels can do effective 3D with strobing but at low brightness and with severe IR issues. TLDR: the Samsung Odyssey G7 is capable of bright, near-perfect crosstalk-free 3D without MBR, but I can't get it to work full-time yet because of a sync issue.
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